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Related: Culture Forums, Support ForumsI see no forum for this so I am posting in the lounge.
2010 Hyundai Accent I bought new, about 72K miles. The most reliable car I ever owned, now has a problem. Every month or two it will stall and refuse to restart until some time has passed, when it won't start it doesn't fire at all. After ten minutes or so it fires right up. It also sometimes starts a little hard, then the tachometer doesn't work. The tach works the next time I start it. I am thinking it is the computer failing. Since COVID hit it has been driven mostly on short trips although I did one trip of around 3K miles in the spring. Plugs and such should still be good. It mostly runs fine but I can't trust it and right now am unable to do much with it until I get some back surgery done in late December. Trading it on a new Hyundai is an option but I would rather avoid that. I need a reliable vehicle until my herniated disk is fixed and I recover from the operation.
Any thoughts or similar experiences, with or without results, would be appreciated.
question everything
(47,265 posts)rzemanfl
(29,540 posts)mahatmakanejeeves
(56,897 posts)Also, do you feel confident checking the fuel pressure in the supply line? It's easy on many cars. I don't know about yours.
edited: also, what question everything said.
rzemanfl
(29,540 posts)I will take it to Auto Zone and the one Florida mechanic I trust.
multigraincracker
(32,531 posts)computer scans. You can get the codes that show and start there. Does not always work as some items only show up when they are happening.
Would be where I would start. Just go into the local auto parts store and ask if they do free code checks.
Let us know how it works out.
Response to multigraincracker (Reply #3)
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rzemanfl
(29,540 posts)Walleye
(30,722 posts)rzemanfl
(29,540 posts)I have loved mine. I bought it as a commuter car, then got pissed off and retired early. My only regret is not putting up the money for cruise control because I figured I would just be driving it on city streets to and from work for 4 years. I planned on getting something much nicer with all the money that would have been in my DROP account if I'd kept working.
Is there DUer named Sauger?
Walleye
(30,722 posts)Also an accent. 2008 maybe. But I had a job with a lot of driving and I drove drove it to death.It probably looked like the one you have now. I bought this car new the year before I retired. I have put very few miles on it since. Just hoping it lasts for a long time. I love driving it Six speed stick shift. I bought it late in the year 2012 so it might be a 2013 model I dont think theres much difference
cachukis
(2,201 posts)rzemanfl
(29,540 posts)and that doesn't explain the tachometer.
Response to rzemanfl (Original post)
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rzemanfl
(29,540 posts)Response to rzemanfl (Original post)
Chin music This message was self-deleted by its author.
rzemanfl
(29,540 posts)Response to rzemanfl (Reply #10)
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taxi
(1,895 posts)In those cases the owners had heavy key rings dangling from the switch causing problems with the contacts inside the switch itself. It is a pain to diagnose; sometimes putting a little pressure on the key will cause or resolve the problem. No code reader can find that fault.
Response to taxi (Reply #11)
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House of Roberts
(5,122 posts)If you remove the positive first and your wrench touches a grounded piece of metal, like a nearby bracket or component, it could cause a short. A large enough arc in the battery area could ignite battery vapors and create an explosion. If your wrench touches ground removing the negative cable, nothing happens.
Earth-shine
(3,853 posts)Over the years, I've had numerous computers and other electronic devices that behave like your car.
Sometimes they fail and will not restart. Then, just by leaving the device alone for a time, it will start working again.
So, it does sound like you are having some failing of computer chips in the car.
rzemanfl
(29,540 posts)and replace the computer. I had a '76 Ford Torino that would stop running at highway speeds about every 3,000 miles. I would coast to the shoulder, it would start and run another 3K miles before it did it again. I never bothered to have it looked at, I drove the car to well over 100,000 miles. I was so attached to it that I had a friend drive it to the junkyard because I couldn't bring myself to.
taxi
(1,895 posts)I have seen problems like that.
In those cases the owners had heavy key rings dangling from the switch causing problems with the contacts inside the switch itself. It is a pain to diagnose; sometimes putting a little pressure on the key will cause or resolve the problem. No code reader can find that fault.
Various contacts in the switch power different components - it sounds like you have intermittent power to either the control modules or some of the sensors. In other cases loose connections at power or ground junctions have been found.
rzemanfl
(29,540 posts)key made and use it to drive with for a while. It is just a key, nothing fancy.
bottomofthehill
(8,261 posts)rzemanfl
(29,540 posts)bottomofthehill
(8,261 posts)the check engine light would come on and then the engine would stall out. there was a recall on the van and once repaired never had another problem.