Welcome to DU! The truly grassroots left-of-center political community where regular people, not algorithms, drive the discussions and set the standards. Join the community: Create a free account Support DU (and get rid of ads!): Become a Star Member Latest Breaking News General Discussion The DU Lounge All Forums Issue Forums Culture Forums Alliance Forums Region Forums Support Forums Help & Search
10 replies = new reply since forum marked as read
Highlight: NoneDon't highlight anything 5 newestHighlight 5 most recent replies
Hiya DU Photogs; (Original Post) Dyedinthewoolliberal Jun 2016 OP
I don't think you will have issues alfredo Jun 2016 #1
I meant to ask; Dyedinthewoolliberal Jun 2016 #8
Your Mileage May Vary ManiacJoe Jun 2016 #10
Get more storage! Atman Jun 2016 #2
thanks I'll check that setting Dyedinthewoolliberal Jun 2016 #9
I guess I should have asked Dyedinthewoolliberal Jun 2016 #3
Shooting in raw format means you need to do post processing on the computer Major Nikon Jun 2016 #4
thanks Major Dyedinthewoolliberal Jun 2016 #5
Yes you can Major Nikon Jun 2016 #6
I have color management software X-Rite i1 profiler womanofthehills Jun 2016 #7

Atman

(31,464 posts)
2. Get more storage!
Mon Jun 6, 2016, 04:18 PM
Jun 2016

Last edited Wed Jun 8, 2016, 07:17 AM - Edit history (1)

Having RAW available is good if you're going to do some serious work on your photos. I keep my DSLR set to save both RAW and JPG (max quality/size). It gives me lots of options, but can really slow the camera down if shooting a rapid series. The RAW photos come in at over 30mb, while the max quality jpg saves are about 9mb.

In my experience, for MOST pictures -- common stuff you're not planning on turning into a sofa-sized print, or doing some heavy Photoshop manipulation, the max JPG setting works beautifully, faster, and takes up a lot less space. If you know you're going for that special art shot, shoot everything in RAW so you have more options later. But otherwise...don't sweat it. I have lots of small-ish prints and postcards that I sell that were shot in jpg with max quality, and you'd have to be a wizard of some sort to be able to tell that they were not shot RAW and then manipulated.

Dyedinthewoolliberal

(15,536 posts)
3. I guess I should have asked
Mon Jun 6, 2016, 04:33 PM
Jun 2016

Can Ijust find any shop that can print (copy) that size? Do I need to go to a photo shop or .....

Major Nikon

(36,817 posts)
4. Shooting in raw format means you need to do post processing on the computer
Mon Jun 6, 2016, 05:19 PM
Jun 2016

Raw format means the raw data from the sensor (actually not quite, but close enough). This means instead of the post processing done inside the camera, you will be doing it outside the camera. So with some kind of post processing software like photoshop you'll need to finish up things like white balance and exposure adjustments.

The bigger you enlarge an image, the more a loss in quality will be noticed. With the D90, you'll start noticing the quality fall off with anything larger than 7.5x12 (12x enlargement). This may not matter depending on how far away the print is going to be viewed.

Dyedinthewoolliberal

(15,536 posts)
5. thanks Major
Mon Jun 6, 2016, 07:24 PM
Jun 2016

I understand about raw v jpeg (size etc) just wondered if there is anything I can do to 'doctor' the photo so it shows well at 18x24.......etc

Major Nikon

(36,817 posts)
6. Yes you can
Mon Jun 6, 2016, 07:50 PM
Jun 2016

One of the post processing steps typically done is sharpening, and this should be done at the resolution you intend to print with as a final step. Even though sharpening can be a pretty simple step, there's a lot of ways to skin that cat. Here's a pretty good article on the subject which is more relevant to photoshop, but should at least give you an idea of what's going on regardless of which post processing application you use.

http://www.bythom.com/sharpening.htm

Experience helps here, and usually when first starting out the tendency is to oversharpen. Another thing is you might want to practice on smaller prints, like say 8x10, to make sure what you are striving for on the monitor is what appears on the finished print, because often you will be surprised at the differences.

womanofthehills

(8,647 posts)
7. I have color management software X-Rite i1 profiler
Mon Jun 6, 2016, 11:28 PM
Jun 2016

to calibrate the color on my screen to match the standards for printing. The first time you do it, it seems confusing but now I can calibrate my monitor in about 10 minutes.



Everyone has a different workflow. After I make all my adjustments in Raw, I open in Photoshop and enlarge the photo 100% to spot. Sometimes I go up to 200% to make sure the photo is really clean. Then I do a final small adjustment in Curves, than sharpen a little more in the lightness channel so as not to effect the color, and the last adjustment I do is fine tune Levels and set the output levels to 3 and 252. I will do all this in 16 bits and the last thing I do is take it down to 8 bits. My final file size is 50.0M which is standard for stock photography. I print my own photos with an Epson Stylus R2880 (a challenging printer to say the least) but I never print bigger than 12 x 18.

Latest Discussions»Culture Forums»Photography»Hiya DU Photogs;