Rice, Coming Off the Sidelines, Becomes a Centerpiece.
'I have a theory about why even experienced cooks are intimidated by plain rice. Cooking rice is mysterious in the same way as baking a cake. There are proportions you need to stick to religiously, a cooking process that you cant see, and a rest period during which you can only cross your fingers and hope for the best. Its all an act of faith where you trust heat, time and a particular ratio of liquid to rice and have no control over the outcome.
But once you nail down a basic rice formula and you can you regain control. For me, every new rice dish is a controlled experiment in which I play with variables like flavor and method, and adjust the formula accordingly.
In recent years, for example, my rice has often been migrating to the oven, and cooking in a baking dish rather than a pot. I do this when I want a large surface area, either underneath or on top of the rice, in which I can embed flavors in all sorts of interesting ways. On one occasion, I braised two heads of garlic and a dozen shallots in lots of olive oil before adding the rice and slowly baking it with curry leaves. Another time, I covered the large surface of the baked rice with thin tiles of feta, placed it under the grill and then finished off with a sweet and salty garnish of pomegranates, walnuts, olives and herbs.
My inclination to turn rice into a meal in itself, or at least a substantial part of the meal, rather than a side dish, has its origins in my roots in the Middle East. When I was growing up in Jerusalem, a weekend meal in either an Arab or Jewish household could be a pot of rice, slowly cooked with plenty of vegetables and possibly meat pieces strewn through. For a fancier occasion this formula would become a pilaf with saffron, nuts and dried fruit, elevating the plain rice to aristocratic heights.'>>>
https://www.nytimes.com/2018/03/20/dining/rice-recipes-ottolenghi-vegetarian.html?
Spiced Maqluba With Tomatoes and Tahini Sauce
https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1019228-spiced-maqluba-with-tomatoes-and-tahini-sauce
Turmeric Rice With Tomatoes
https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1019229-turmeric-rice-with-tomatoes