A Chef's Singular Take on Chiles Rellenos
'The Chicago chef Diana Dávila weaves together chiles en nogada and chiles rellenos ahogados, honoring two traditions, then making them soar.
When the chef Diana Dávila suggested we make chiles rellenos together, I have to confess my heart sank a little.
As the chef of the Mi Tocaya Antojería, one of Chicagos most thrilling restaurants, she is known for her lively, often challenging take on regional Mexican cuisine. She smears soft chunks of tongue with peanut butter, garnishes guacamole with a black dusting of chile ash, piles her cactus salad with burrata and crunchy chicharrón. Chiles rellenos just didnt seem to have the same sort of creative flair. With tens of thousands of recipes already in existence for the dish, did we really need another subtle variation?
This was no subtle variation, she assured me.
Within minutes of arriving in her restaurant kitchen, I could see what she meant. On the counter was her mise en place: heirloom tomatoes, Granny Smith apples, carrot juice, raisins, brown sugar and duck confit. From this seemingly disparate collection of ingredients, she concocted one of the best chiles rellenos Ive even had deeply savory, tantalizingly sweet, brawny and rich, but also brothy and light, and completely unlike any other version out there.'>>>
https://www.nytimes.com/2018/12/17/dining/chiles-rellenos-recipe-diana-davila.html