over the counter kitchen light just won't work...

[CTyankee]

the bulb had burned out (or just didn't work) a week or so ago and I went to the hardware store for a replacement. The light still did not work. Our handyman tested the electricity in the fixture. It works. But now the replacement doesn't work (the other two in the kitchen do work).

Yes, the switch was on.

Any electricians out there know what might be wrong?

[Gaugamela]

1. Is it a fluorescent bulb?

If it’s fluorescent then it’s possible the ballast is burnt out, and needs to be replaced. Otherwise there is a worn out connection in the wiring to the bulb socket. If that’s the case it’s probably best to replace the whole fixture. You may need an electrician to do that. If the handyman can’t troubleshoot the problem then he’s probably not qualified to fix it.

[CTyankee]

2. Yes. And the other two work just fine.

I told the handyman this and he recommended that I get an electrician but couldn't give me the name of one.

I'll go to our local hardware store where I get things like that bulb and ask them if they have a list of qualified electricians.

Do you know how much, ball park estimate, that it would cost to do this?

[Gaugamela]

3. I just edited my response above to include more information. Each fixture has it's own

ballast. My first guess is that’s the problem, but you’ll probably need an electrician to fix it. If you’re renting then the landlord should fix it.

[getagrip_already]

9. If it's a screw in starter (older fixtures have these), it's a few dollars

And you can replace it easily. It will look like a metal cylander, probably unpainted aluminum.

The just pop out if you push in and turn them. No chance ot getting shocked handling them.

Internal ballasts aren't worth replacing. You can buy a new fixture and bulb for less than it would cost to repair.

https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-Fluorescent-Standard-54388/dp/B008DB3EHO/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_i=B008DB3EHO&psc=1

[Gaugamela]

4. It's hard to say, but I would expect something like $150 to $200.

[OAITW r.2.0]

11. That's what I'd check first.

Swap the ballasts (1 possible bad and either one of the working lights). If the problem follows the ballast, then the easy solution is replacing the ballast. If it doesn't, then the problem is the fixture or wiring connections to this problem light.

[OAITW r.2.0]

5. Sounds like the 3 lights are wired in parallel.

Might want to have the junction box that supplies power to the 3 lights checked to see if one of the circuits has a loose connection. Or the actual non-working fixture/ballast is defective.

[CTyankee]

7. where would such a "junction box" be located? We have a prewar colonial, built right before WW2.

We had to upgrade everything. I didn't know what a fuse was until then. That was a long time ago so I don't remember the contractor who did it. It's a great house, with good bones, but did we ever have to upgrade! The windows were the old rope and pulley type and the rope was so old it would break and we'd have to keep the window up with a brick. We also got central air and better heating system.

[OAITW r.2.0]

10. Well, that could be the tricky part. typically, a junction box would be close to

the actual lights. The box takes the power side wiring and allows (in your case) separate wiring to each fixture. It probably is located in the ceiling. If you have sheetrock, then you'd have to remove it to get to the junction box.

First, I'd check the fixture - a multi-tester can tell if the fixture is getting power. Assuming no power there, check the wire leads feeding the fixture. If power there, the fixture is bad. If no power on these feed wires....then you need to locate the junction box to fix.

You say that this is a florescent light....if so, check the ballast....the ballast can be easily removed and probably replaced to see if you then get power to the fixture.

[CTyankee]

12. where is the ballast?

[CTyankee]

13. Yes, our handyman tested the fixture and showed us there is electrical power there.

The junction box is not visible so it could be in the ceiling? Or perhaps in the basement?

[OAITW r.2.0]

14. If a multi-tester is showing power, then I think it has to be the bulb or ballast.

Honestly, though, I am not sure how the multi-tester interprets the voltage signal after the ballast. Could be getting some power, but is the voltage high enough to turn the bulb on? The ballast regulates the current (allows enough voltage to start the bulb, but then reduced the voltage so as not to burn the bulb out., so I think you'd need an ammeter to test what the current to bulb is.

I would think you need to check the ballast. Typically, it's located at one end of the fixture...it is like a small cylinder that you push and twist to remove.

[CTyankee]

15. OK, but what do I do with it then?

and there are two other lights just like this one (different length size, tho) and changing bulbs is simple. This one was, too. So I know it is a malfunction of just this one fixture.

[OAITW r.2.0]

16. I'd go to Lowes/Home Depot first. If they don't have you can order from your local HW store

or order online. specs off the ballast should get you to the right church and pew.

[CTyankee]

18. Thanks. We are getting an electrician. Do you know what approximately it would cost for an

electrician to put one in? I don't want to pin you down but this doesn't sound like it's too much of a job.

We can certainly afford it, but what should it cost approximately for the complete job? I realize that after the electrician's diagnosis he'll have to go to the hardware store to buy one. Or maybe they come prepared for this? I mean, this sounds like a very easy problem to resolve. Or am I wrong about that?

[Gaugamela]

6. There is also a remote chance the replacement bulb is a dud. You could test it in one

of the other fixtures.

[CTyankee]

8. Yes, I thought of that. The hardware store gave me another one. Two bulbs from the store are duds?

We don't have another fixture of that length to test it out. But if two brand new bulbs don't work the odds would be against it that there are 2 brand new bulbs that are duds.

[OAITW r.2.0]

17. Let me also suggest,,,,

Get rid of the Floursent bulbs and go with warm kelvin LEDs....you can dim them, too. And draw very little energy. Warm vs. cold, no brainer for a Yankee.

[CTyankee]

19. I do know they come in warm bulbs too. I think that's what we have now in the other two lights.

So to avoid having to change out two perfectly good bulbs for the sake of bright we'll keep them for now. As we get older, tho, I see the wisdom of brighter lights in the kitchen. Maybe we'll do that once we get this one fixed.

[OAITW r.2.0]

20. I'd love to see the light application now.

Wish you could link to a pic upload site / link on DU.


Depending on your application, you may visually benefit with warmer lighting than florescent cold kelvin lighting...it really is transformative in a living space. And one power lead from an existing light can power your new lighting easily. Cap off and tape the power leads/neutrals to the other 2 lights. fairly cheap, easy to install, enjoy the lighting change.

[CTyankee]

21. I wish I could, too. It is beyond my present capabilities (I'm old).

My kids think I am hopeless. But I am engrossed in writing a book and taking care of my husband who has some disabilities. But I do thank you for your help! You have been most kind.