HAVANA -- At night, when all Havana seems to be out for an evening stroll, the austere office building that serves as an outpost of U.S. diplomats turns into a billboard.
Letters scroll slowly across the facade, casting a bright red glow. Clumps of restless teen-agers plunk their bottles of Havana Club rum on the sidewalk and stare up, their mouths agape. Couples unlace hands and gawk.
Some nights they read the insights of comedian George Burns translated into Spanish: "How sad that all the people who would know how to run this country are driving taxis or cutting hair." Other times, questions are posed: "In a free country you don't need permission to leave the country. Is Cuba a free country?"
On a typical evening, the billboard gets only a small audience - the few who venture within a block or two of its glowing letters. More people might have seen the messages, but President Fidel Castro countered the U.S. move with one of his own.
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