Entomologists: a question

[hyphenate]

I've currently got a colony of carpenter ants making my place their current abode. I've been wanting to bomb but the weather's been holding me up (too damned hot for the cats outside), so I've been squashing those that I see with my shoes instead.

Sometimes I notice one walking across, carrying an "injured" or dead ant with him. Of course, I stomp on them both at that point. But it seems eery that ants could have some sort of clan thinking enough to take a wounded or dead "comrade" back to the nest. Or are they dragging them back simply to nosh on them?

[ayeshahaqqiqa]

1. not an entomologist, but

I work for a pest control company, and I've read about carpenter ants. You realize that they are eating your wood to make galleries for their colony. They have a hierarchy of workers, soldiers, drones, queens. I don't know that they cannibalize their dead; I do know that bombing won't be as effective as taking an ice pick or a similar object to open up the holes in the wood and shooting foam or some such into the gallery. I don't know if you can get Premise foam over the counter, but it would be the best remedy-you take the tube and stick the end in the hole you made and hit the button until you see foam coming out. It will take care of the ants inside and leave a residual that will take out workers as they return.

You can also get carpenter ant bait; the workers get it and take it back to the colony, where everyone feeds and eventually dies.

[hyphenate]

3. Thanks, Ayesha

I bombed a couple of years ago and it did make them disappear for awhile. Unfortunately, the house is not mine, and my friend who owns the house isn't as concerned as I am about them, which I wish he would be. I told him he should bomb when I do, but he doesn't even have the inclination to do so, and he's lived in the house now for 30 years. As I said, it's his house, not mine, and he's the one who will have to live with the consequences even when I'm gone. He has a lot of apathy for his dwelling, and doesn't even do basic maintenance unless he absolutely has to--he mows the lawn, but won't trim the bushes or neaten them up. He's got a monster of a wild bush in the back that he lets grow over a good third of the backyard, and won't do anything about it. He had poison ivy growing in the front next to the stairs, and until I showed him the rash on my legs from it, he was content to let it grow wild. I am not completely sure it's apathy or what, but he said if I moved out, he would want to sell the house. I'm afraid there is very little else I can do otherwise, but I will add some of the ant bait traps after the bombing, to take care of all those who I didn't get with that.

We've also got lots of outdoor ants, and I told him to spread diatomaceous earth around the house, and again, he won't do it. If I had my druthers, I would tent the house and let the experts do the trick. I HATE bugs of ALL kind.

[ayeshahaqqiqa]

5. If he wants to sell the house,

new owners will probably want a pest control report, called a Wood Destroying Infestation Report. There is a form that is used nation wide, and it includes carpenter ants as well as termites. An inspector has to report any visible damage that is found. Many lending institutions insist that any damage found be repaired and that the problem be taken care of. When damage is extensive, the cost can run into the thousands of dollars. I've seen people not be able to sell their houses because we found extensive termite damage and conditions that wouldn't allow us to treat the house properly. You might want to let the landlord know this.

[1monster]

2. Carpenter ants are harder to get rid of than termites! We've treated for

termites and haven't seen any fresh evidence of them for several years. But the carpenter ants! I swear, you can spray them point bland with ant killer. They go down, and two minutes later they get up and get going again.

They've eaten fences and siding and are just as damaging to your home as termites.

Call your pest control people ASAP. (It's cheaper than replacing everything they eat.)

[hyphenate]

4. See above for the answer

but I completely agree with you--I've had to do multiple stomps sometimes to get those bastards dead. I can't believe their staying power.

[Whoa_Nelly]

6. Some info on these pesky critters

http://www.ext.vt.edu/departments/entomology/factsheets/carpants.html

And this site offers some more info, including help in identifying lacation of the nest:
http://www.allabouthome.com/tips/pests/carpenter_ants.html

And one more:
http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2063.html
<snip>
Bait and granular formulations are usually not highly effective against carpenter ants. Dusts, wettable powders, injections, and sprayables are better. It is often best to employ a licensed pest control firm, especially where nests are hard to find. Some firms attempt to locate the nest or nests and treat only in suspected places. Others drill and dust potential nesting sites. Most apply a perimeter spray treatment around the house foundation. Avoid simply spraying each month whenever ants are seen. Infestations will continue unless nests are eliminated. Locating the nest is not always easy, but is essential for control.

[Whoa_Nelly]

7. One more site that offers a method to locate entry into your house

Very good info site:
http://www.uky.edu/Agriculture/Entomology/entfacts/struct/ef603.htm

<snip>
When carpenter ants are observed, don't spray them; instead, feed the ants small dabs of diluted honey placed onto the back (nonsticky side) of pieces of masking tape. The best time to do this is late at night since this is when carpenter ants are most active. After the ants have fed on the honey, follow them on their journey back to their nest. Be patient-- eventually the ants will disappear behind a baseboard, cabinet, or into some other concealed location such as the hollow space (void) within a wall, door casing, or porch column.

Treat wall voids and other hidden spaces where ants are entering by carefully drilling a series of small (1/8 inch) holes and puffing boric acid (available at most hardware stores) into the suspected nest areas. The boric acid powder will disperse in the hidden void and contact and kill the ants. If you suspect the nest is in a wall, drill and treat at least 3-6 feet on either side of where ants are entering so as to maximize the chances of contacting the nest. Carpenter ants prefer to travel along wires, pipes and edges. If you suspect the nest location is in a wall, also treat behind pipe collars and behind --not in-- the junction box for electrical switch plates/receptacles. NEVER SPRAY LIQUIDS OR INSERT METAL-TIPPED DEVICES AROUND ELECTRICAL OUTLETS!).

As noted earlier, carpenter ants seen in the home may actually be nesting outdoors, foraging indoors for food and/or moisture. Consequently, the homeowner may end up following the ants they have baited with honey out of the house and into the yard, possibly to a nest located in a stump, or under a log or railroad tie. Once the outdoor nest is discovered, treatment can be performed by spraying or drenching the nest with an insecticide such as carbaryl (Sevin), diazinon, or chlorpyrifos (Dursban). If outdoor nests are suspected, the homeowner should also inspect around the foundation of the building at night with a flashlight, especially around doors, weep holes and openings such as where utility pipes and wires enter the structure. The baiting approach using honey can also be used to trace carpenter ants which are foraging outdoors back to their nest.