|
The clue to me is that he's also defecating outside the box. My cat who is now in the vet hospital for stones would go outside of the box to pee, but always pooped in the box. It's possible it's a medical issue and I'd get him checked first, but these are a few things that might help.
If you have two cats, they recommend three litter trays -- one for each cat and a spare. Some cats don't like to pee and poo in the same box, and some cats don't like to pee or poo where another cat has.
Boxes HAVE to be clean. If you have to clean them twice a day, better that than skipping a day. If you can afford it, a Littermaid and extra premium litter can help to keep it clean enough.
Feliway can help if they're spraying. It did nothing for my kitty, because his was not spraying/middening but was just that he couldn't get to the box in time and associated the box with pain.
----------
Have you been able to observe the cat that's having issues? Is he spraying (they can squat or not to spray, but it's usually only a tiny bit of urine and their tail twitches furiously) or just squatting and trying to cover it after? When he poos, is he doing it in walkways or other high-traffic areas, or going off into a corner and trying to cover it up? Middening usually is them pooing in very obvious places, trying to assert their territory.
If it's spraying/middening, the Feliway may help a great deal.
----------
It's also possible he just had something bad happen to him while in the litterbox that makes him avoid it (another kitty jumping on him playing, a loud noise, etc).
If the vet clears him, and it doesn't seem to be spraying/middening but more confusion about where he's supposed to go, you may have to retrain him to the box. It may not be easy on you, but my vet recommends the following to retrain an adult cat to a litterbox:
1) Set up a new litterbox in a room that has no carpet or soft surfaces that could be appealing or would retain scent -- bathroom, laundry room, bedroom with hardwood or tile floors with no upholstered furniture.
2) Confine cat in room, after putting his food and toys and a place for him to sleep that's soft -- they usually won't pee in their bed, but a few towels works and they can be washed if he does. We had a cat tree that would fit in our laundry room when we did this, so he slept in the cat tree.
3) Keep litterbox very, very clean, and he will likely use the box as it is the most pleasant alternative compared to the floor or their bed. The longer he's been inappropriately toileting, the longer you may have to confine him. We kept our cat confined for a month since he'd had pretty severe issues, the first two weeks of that month were while he was still recovering from a possible UTI. Spend an hour or two in the room with him a day and perhaps set up a TV or a radio so that he has some stimulation.
4) When he is using the box exclusively for awhile, you can start letting him out of the room for supervised visitation, but make sure when you leave the house that he is back in his room. If he toilets inappropraitely during the visitation time, you may need to confine him longer.
Gradually you can let them out for longer and longer periods. I would still keep doors to carpeted rooms shut until you feel confident -- we didn't let him in any carpeted room for six months.
Make sure you get vet clearance and if he has a UTI or any other problems, make sure they are resolved. It may be best to keep him confined if he does have a UTI until you're sure it's healed to keep your furniture/carpets okay.
-------
Also, is he an indoor/outdoor cat? He was feral you said, so he may be more comfortable being an indoor-outdoor cat, and may simply want to toilet outside.
Good luck!
|