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I wanted to post this as a separate thread, based on a previous one having to do with the PITA that is the rebate industry. I used to be the training sup in a large CS call center for one of the biggest rebate outfits in the country (they handled rebates and sweepstakes for everyone from HP to Imation to Verizon to Sprint to Pepsi...you name it). Here are a few tips that may help if you do decide to take advantage of them in the future:
1) Follow the directions TO THE LETTER. This is particularly true with the sweepstakes: if it says 3x5 ruled index card, and you send it on a 4x6, they'll toss it. If it says black or blue ink, and you use purple, they'll toss it. 2)For the rebates, the most important thing is to MAKE SURE YOU'RE ELIGIBLE before you make your purchase! Salespeople are notorious for telling you things like, "Oh, sure, if you upgrade to the more expensive model, you bet you'll still get your rebate." No, you won't, if the more expensive model is not included in the rebate. Also, for PC equipment, if you buy at Sam's, WalMart, Costco, etc., your model is most likely NOT going to be eligible for a rebate; those stores sell cheaper models and the rebate is essentially built in. Read the form and call the toll-free number on it to ask about eligibility; don't trust the salesperson. 3) When you do send in for the rebate, make sure the UPC you send in is the one for the PRODUCT, not the UPC for the shipping company or something like that - we used to get a LOT of UPS bar codes and stuff like that. 4) Understand the reason for the pickiness and the long time frame: most rebates, especially high-dollar value rebates, are set for 8-12 weeks' processing time. This is roughly equivalent to the usual time frame within which you can return the item for a full refund, IF IT'S IN THE ORIGINAL, UNCUT BOX. The reason companies insist on the original UPC bar codes, cut off the box, is so that you can't send in for the rebate and then return the product. A lot of people try that; others are pretty skilled at making phony receipts, etc. 5) Make copies of everything you submit, both sides, including the rebate form (SIGN IT before you send it in!) 6) Please don't take out your frustrations on the person answering the phone when you call about your rebate; the first person to answer had nothing to do with the rebate rules and would like nothing more than to send you a check, if it will make you shut up and stop swearing at him/her *lol* If you are indeed eligible for a rebate, and have the documentation, the rep can USUALLY 'escalate' the call to a senior rep or a Sup/Manager who may have the authority to cut you a check if you fax in copies of your information. The more polite and understanding you are with the first rep who answers, the more likely you are to get somewhere - think about it - if someone were screaming at YOU on the phone and telling you that you SUCK and your company SUCKS and the rebate industry SUCKS, you probably wouldn't be real inclined to be nice back. Customer service reps take a shitload of abuse, at VERY low pay...please don't blame them! 7)The rebate time frame as stated on the rebate form is from the time it's RECEIVED, not the time you sent it. And for most rebate processors, RECEIVED means, "once we've opened the mail and entered your information into the computer." We used to get a semi load of mail or more every day; it takes a while to open the mail (even with auto-slitting machines - that's why, if you got your stuff sent back and were wondering why some of your info was cut in two, it's because of the envelope-opening machines), check the envelope for all required elements for the rebate, and then pass it along to the data entry department to be keyed in to the system.
I hope that helps some; if you have specific questions, feel free to either reply to the post, or PM me - :hi:
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