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Edited on Sun Sep-04-05 06:23 PM by Mairead
See the drop shadows? There are 2 ways to get them (3 really, but the third doesn't make any sense).
The usual method is to use solid colors for the background (in the top case that's the turquoisish color and the ochre color) and overprint it with a halftone tint of a darker color--black, usually--for the shadows, for the texture in the ochre text, and for that darkened center in the star.
An alternate way would be to pick some quite dark colors (again, that would be a quite dark turquoise and ochre for the top one), print those as solids or near-solids for the shadows, texture, and center but as a halftone tint (where the white vinyl of the sticker shows through in little tiny dots and, visually, makes the turquoise look lighter (our eyes do the work). But halftoned bumper stickers tend to be blotchy--the silkscreen technology isn't very sophisticated, so the little dots vary in size promiscuously.
In either case, the white highlights along the edges of the letters etc come for free--you just don't print anything there and let the white vinyl of the sticker show through.
If I were going to do that, and really really wanted drop shadows and raised lettering, I'd go with 3 colors. I wouldn't try the alternate trick because it always looks cheap. You can sometimes see the same thing where people try to get by with 3-color printing (magenta, cyan, and yellow) instead of the usual 4 (those plus black)==everything looks cheesy and washed out! Black is a vital color in printing--nothing looks good without it, when shading is involved.
But in your place, I wouldn't try for the fancy features. I'd basically follow Rosco's advice and do 2 colors on white except I wouldn't ever put red and blue directly together because of the way human eyes work--the combination causes a little queasiness when looked at, which is the last thing you want.
(edit) Oh, and line things up, too. Things always look better when the edges line up. If you do line them up, make sure you do it optically rather than mechanically. For example, lining up an O along the left edge means moving it just a teensy bit "too far" left, into the margin, so that optically it looks lined up even tho it's not.
I hope that helps.
(I thought you could test the role of black in pshop by converting to cymk and turning off the black channel, but that doesn't work. It should work, but maybe only in some special pre-press mode that I never use)
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