http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2005/09/14/FDGN0EKEGC1.DTLFLAVORS OF MOROCCO
Janet Fletcher, Chronicle Staff Writer
Wednesday, September 14, 2005
"There's nothing made in Morocco without tomatoes," says Moroccan-born chef Mourad Lahlou, who is only slightly overstating the case. At his acclaimed San Francisco restaurant Aziza, Lahlou updates Moroccan cooking, but tomatoes, peppers and eggplants -- the Moroccan cook's produce touchstones -- remain his kitchen's foundation.
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Mourad Lahlou's dishes at Aziza in San Francisco are base...Moroccan spices. Chronicle photo by Craig LeeBell peppers and tomatoes are filled with a mixture of gr... View More Images
"If you take them out of Moroccan cooking, you're left with not much," says the che
Moroccan Eggplant Soup with Za'atar Croutons
If you have a charcoal grill, it is worth your trouble to cook the eggplant over coals to give the soup a smoky flavor.
INGREDIENTS:
The Croutons
8 slices of day-old baguette, cut on the diagonal about 1/4-inch thick
Extra virgin olive oil
Za'atar (see Note)
The Soup
2 large globe eggplants, 1 1/4-1 1/2 pounds each, sliced 1/2-inch thick
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil + oil for brushing eggplant
3 medium leeks, white and pale green parts only, thinly sliced
5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme, preferably lemon thyme
Approximately 1 1/2 quarts chicken stock
1/2 cup heavy cream
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
1/4 cup creme fraiche
1/2 teaspoon sumac
INSTRUCTIONS:
For the croutons: Preheat the oven to 375°. Brush the baguette slices generously on both sides with olive oil, then arrange on a baking sheet and sprinkle the top surface generously with za'atar. Bake until crisp, 8-10 minutes, turning the baking sheet halfway through so the toasts cook evenly. Set aside to cool.
For the soup: Prepare a charcoal fire or preheat a gas grill or broiler. Brush the eggplant on both sides with olive oil and grill or broil, turning once, until barely tender. Chop coarsely.
Heat the 1/4 cup olive oil in a large pot over moderate heat. Add the leeks, garlic and thyme and saute until the leeks are softened but not colored, about 10 minutes. Add the eggplant and cook for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, then add 1 quart of the stock and bring to a simmer. Adjust the heat to maintain a simmer and cook for about 15 minutes. Puree in a food processor. Strain the soup through a fine sieve, pressing with a spatula to force the solids through.
Return the soup to a clean pot and stir in heavy cream. Reheat the soup, adding as much additional stock as needed to achieve a pleasing consistency. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Whisk the creme fraiche with the sumac. Divide the soup among warm bowls and drizzle the surface with the seasoned creme fraiche. Accompany each bowl with a crouton.
Serves 6 to 8.
Note: Za'atar is a Middle Eastern spice blend available at Middle Eastern markets. Recipes vary, but Lalou makes his by mixing equal parts sesame seed, dried thyme and sumac, then blending the mixture to a powder in a spice grinder.
PER SERVING: 255 calories, 6 g protein, 23 g carbohydrate, 17 g fat (6 g saturated), 24 mg cholesterol, 64 mg sodium, 5 g fiber.
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I've been to the chef's Aziza restaurant a few times and the food is great!
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