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Some advice on taking pictures at an ice skating event

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Catch22Dem Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon Jun-27-05 07:58 PM
Original message
Some advice on taking pictures at an ice skating event
Wow, I had no idea this DU group was out there. As a matter of fact, it's been a long time since I browsed the groups page. There are a LOT of groups I didn't know about.

Anyway, I don't think of myself as much of a photographer, but I'm learning more and more as I go along. Trial and error, mostly. I've attached a picture of one of one of my iris' I took when they were in full bloom. :D

My question is this; I have a Fuji FinePix S3000. I'd like to take pictures at my daughter's ice skating events, but I've NEVER been able to get one of my pics from there come out at all. Here's my dilemma; I can't get a good combination of shutter speed vs. light. When I set it for a fast shutter (like the built-in "sport" setting) I don't get enough light and when I try to lengthen the shutter speed, I get light, but she's just a blur.

Can you offer any advice or am I just screwed?

Specs:

Lens
Fujinon 6✕ zoom lens, F 2.8 – F 3

Shutter speed
Auto/SP: 1/4 sec. to 1/1500 sec.
SP (Night scene mode only): 3 sec. to 1/250 sec.
Manual (Aperture priority): 1/2 sec. to 1/1500 sec.

If there are other specs that you might need to know (I have no clue) they're all listed here: http://www.fujifilm.com/JSP/fuji/epartners/bin/S3000Brochure_1.pdf

Thanks in advance.

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ConsAreLiars Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon Jun-27-05 09:42 PM
Response to Original message
1. It appears that sensor sensitivity is the problem
According to http://www.dpreview.com/news/0308/03082602fujifilms3000.asp it is "Equivalent to ISO 100 (with flash off), Equivalent to ISO 100-200 (with flash on)." The flash won't be of much help beyond 12 feet, but enabling the flash apparently also boosts the sensitivity, but probably not enough for handheld lowlight photography with moving subjects.

Your best bet would be to use a tripod and try to capture your subject still or moving toward the camera rather than racing across the screen, or try to go for the artsy blur. If much of the scene is dark, you can also use "manual" mode to set exposure compensation to -1.0 or -2.0, which should give a better exposure for the lighted area and let the rest go black.
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regnaD kciN Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue Jun-28-05 12:22 AM
Response to Original message
2. Hate to tell you, but...
Edited on Tue Jun-28-05 12:24 AM by regnaD kciN
...for fast action, particularly under low light, most digital "minicams" are pretty much useless. They generally suffer from poor low-light performance (lots of color noise in the image at anything over ISO 200), and a long latency period from the time you frame until the photo is actually taken.

For shooting this sort of "assignment," I would suggest using either a D-SLR like the Nikon D70 or Canon Digital Rebel which offers faster shooting plus good image quality at ISO 800 and beyond, or...a regular 35mm camera (gasp!) with high-speed stock.

By the way, your iris is lovely. I'm sorry you didn't enter it in the contest just past.



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Catch22Dem Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue Jun-28-05 06:01 PM
Response to Reply #2
3. Thanks
I kinda figured that would be the case. Thanks also for the compliment on the flower. It was that contest that made me think of posting it. :D
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bvar22 Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue Jun-28-05 07:20 PM
Response to Original message
4. I added an external flash
to my Olympus C-750, which has helped for stop action shots.
I couldn't tell if your camera has a Hot Shoe or a remote flash port. The External Flash is MUCH brighter, and I have been able to use faster (manual) shutter speeds.
The range is also a little longer than the stock onboard flash, but I don't know how much help it would be outside 12-15 feet.






The above shots were just unsatisfactory noisy blurs with the stock flash.

To overcome the latency, I pre-framed and pre-focused (half trigger) on the spot and waited until my sublect (victim) ran through the shot.

I'm still experimenting with settings, and have some room for even faster shuter speeds.

My Hot Shoe add on flash is a "Sunpak Digital Flash" which sells for about $22 Dollars over the InterNet. It comes with NO instructions, and is NOT compatible with "AUTO" modes, so alot of MANUAL settings experimentation is required....but what the hell, its not like I'm paying for the film.

The official "Olympus" external flash was over $150.00.


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Catch22Dem Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue Jun-28-05 08:28 PM
Response to Reply #4
5. Unfortunately, during competitions, flash is prohibited
But I really appreciate the advice.
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bvar22 Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue Jun-28-05 11:39 PM
Response to Reply #5
6. I can certainly understand their reasons.
Without a flash, about all you can do is use the highest ISO that your camera allows. If you have a manual mode, you might try experimenting with the settings.

About the only option I can think of would be to take your action shots while she practices her routines. If she knows where you are and that you will be using a flash, it shouldn't bother her much. Of course, she would have the final say so. You could then take wider "context" shots at the events and mix them together. Its not the same but short of another camera may be the only solution.

Good Luck.
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