Race and money in New Orleans: saving "the soul of its food"

[DeepModem Mom]

NYT: Can New Orleans Save the Soul of Its Food?
By KIM SEVERSON
Published: January 11, 2006

WILLIE MAE SEATON and her wet-battered fried chicken were honored last year in New York in front of thousands of the nation's food elite. Bob Iacovone of Cuvée was enjoying his own measure of success, drawing national notice for his continental Creole food.

A few weeks ago, Willie Mae Seaton, 89, sat sweating on the stoop of her moldering New Orleans restaurant. About all that was left were a few gallons of unopened vegetable oil, a hulk of an old stove and a shrine to Jesus.

About a mile away, in a part of the city Katrina left intact, Mr. Iacovone was in crisp chef's whites, combining Louisiana lump crabmeat with Brie and orzo. He had a full house coming to dinner.

Race and money have long separated this city's po' boy counters from its white-tablecloth restaurants. But the line between the two was easily crossed in pursuit of something that tasted good....Among those who care about New Orleans food, the debate is whether the high can survive without the low....

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Miss Seaton's double shotgun shack has for half a century held her home, a 30-seat Creole-soul restaurant and a little bar where she once served her signature cocktail, milk and scotch. Like thousands of others here, she wasn't insured against the water that soaked the place to the studs four months ago. And like other old-line neighborhood spots, even with a cleanup, the cost of expensive upgrades to meet modern health codes could keep the doors shut for good....

http://www.nytimes.com/2006/01/11/dining/11orle.html