naturalfoodmerchandiserBená Burda puts an organic spin on cottonHilary OliverAn organic fabric forerunner weaves fairness into the industry
Bená Burda laughingly recalls the president of golf-clothing manufacturer Cutter & Buck saying he wanted to shake her hand. He was amazed that Burda—unaware of what a convoluted, difficult sector the apparel industry is—dived right in to create one of the first organic cotton clothing companies in the United States.
When Burda began her organics industry career in the early 1990s, she didn't envision cotton socks and camisoles—she was working for Little Bear Snack Foods, producing organic corn chips. But 15 years later, she has helped formulate industry standards for organic textiles, created a new business model with a worker-owned textiles cooperative in Nicaragua and continues to raise awareness for organic textiles through her line of cotton garments, Maggie's Organics. It started with talking to an organic farmer about corn chip color.
Burda noticed that the color in Little Bear's blue-corn chips tended to fade, instead of staying a rich hue. Trying to find a natural solution for the problem rather than adding a colorant, Burda talked to the farmer, who said he might have an answer. His solution was to add cotton to his crop rotation, which helped fortify the soil, producing more richly colored corn. The only problem was what to do with this unexpected cotton crop.
Instead of leaving the farmer to find a market himself, Burda took on the challenge of putting the crop to good use. "It was the early '90s, and it was a much smaller industry back then," she says. "But you had a loyal, devoted relationship with your
farmers, supporting their agricultural practices, whatever they were growing." So Burda started making socks, and eventually camisoles, T-shirts and tights from the organic cotton.
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