usually there is a huge deductible, which can be worth it depending on the value of your home and potential cost of repairs. How close to a major fault are you?
I did make sure my mom had equake insurance as her home had a small mortgage and she lived half a mile from the San Andreas Fault south of San Francisco.
Since my mom's house was split level, meaning the garage which was underneath a portion of the house was only supported by three solid walls the risk of collapse in an earthquake was great.
I also had my brother make sure the support posts were connected to the piers and I had him add plywood to the cripple walls in the crawl space to stregthen them.
A great book to read is "Peace of mind in Earthquake Country: How to Save Your Home and Life" by Peter Yanev, old, but still useful and the price is right!
http://used.addall.com/SuperRare/submitRare.cgi?author=&title=peace+of+mind+in+earthquake+country&keyword=&isbn=&order=PRICE&ordering=ASC&dispCurr=USD&binding=Any+Binding&min=&max=&timeout=20&match=Y&store=Abebooks&store=Alibris&store=Amazon&store=Antiqbook&store=Biblio&store=Biblion&store=Bibliophile&store=Bibliopoly&store=Half&store=ILAB&store=LivreRareBook&store=Powells&store=Strandbooks&store=Tomfolio&store=ZVABhere is a site with some info and a quiz on how safe your home might be (just took the quiz for mom's old home and looked at the seismic map-she was in the "very violent shaking" region! and scored 23 points-that is why I kept boots/flashlight by my bed and a two week supply of instant meals when I was taking care of her
http://www.abag.ca.gov/bayarea/eqmaps/fixit/quiz/fixitquizSF.htmlShould I be concerned about my home being so badly damaged in a future earthquake that I will be unable to sleep in it or that I will be injured? TAKE THIS QUIZ!
When was your home built?
If you are unsure of when your home was built, you can contact your county assessors' office. (Clicking on this button opens a new window that you will have to close to return to this quiz.)
Before 1960 = 5 points
1961 - 1978 = 3 points
1979 - now = 1 point
How tall is it?
The purpose of this question is to determine if you have potential problems due to (1) a "soft story" problem due to living area over a garage, (2) a complex configuration such as a hillside or split-level home, or (3) a "cripple wall" - a short wall between the top of your foundation and the first floor. Cripple walls commonly occur if your home is on a hill OR has more than three steps to the front door. (Clicking on the link below will open a new window with additional information on "cripple walls" that you will have to close to return to this quiz.)
2 or more stories with living area above a garage = 5 points
Split level, on hillside, or on gentle slope = 6 points
1 story, 3 or more steps to front door = 4 points
1 story, less than 3 steps to front door = 1 point
What intensity (color) does the shaking intensity map show for your neighborhood?
If you are unsure of the shaking your home may be exposed to, you can view the shaking intensity maps. (Clicking on this button opens a new window that you will have to close to return to this quiz.) Most of the Bay Area is likely to experience shaking of VIII, IX or X in at least one major earthquake.
Shaking = VIII, IX, or X (Red, dark red, or black) (most of Bay Area) = 7 points
Shaking = VII (Yellow) = 5 points
Shaking = V or VI (Green or blue) = 3 points
TOTAL POINTS
If your home earned 13 or more points, it probably needs to be evaluated to see if it is strong enough to keep you and your family reasonably safe, unless it has been strengthened in the last few years.
Scientists predict that a large quake in the Bay Area is about twice as likely to happen as not to happen during the next 30 years. Are you betting your home's value and your safety on those odds?
info on retrofitting-they have proper terminology here-I am not a contractor!
http://www.abag.ca.gov/bayarea/eqmaps/fixit/FAQs.htmlRetrofitting for most single-family homes involves strengtheing the walls of the crawl space under your home and making sure that it is attached to the foundation (with bolts or anchors) and to the floor framing above. While many homes continue to be retrofitted, we have become increasingly concerned about the quality of retrofits, including the workmanship and the work actually performed. Somewhere between 25% and 75% of currently retrofitted homes need additional work. Make sure that your contractor addresses all three of the following:
1. The mudsill-foundation connection - Adding bolts and washer plates will prevent the house from slipping off the foundation.
2. The cripple wall - Adding plywood panels on all four walls will prevent collapse of the outside wall of your crawl space (the cripple wall) to resist collapse, or "shear."
3. The cripple wall-floor framing connection - Adding framing clips to attach the plywood shear walls to the floor framing above.
Specific directions on how to do a retrofit (including the kind and number of bolts, feet of plywood, types of nails to use, and number of anchors) are contained in the model "retrofit plan set."
A qualified engineer or other design professional is usually needed to evaluate larger split-level or two-story homes.
http://www.abag.ca.gov/bayarea/eqmaps/fixit/resources.html