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Myrina

(12,296 posts)
Fri Jan 10, 2014, 12:05 PM Jan 2014

Contemplating relocation. Tell me what you know ...

... about the Florida panhandle (Tallahassee, Ft Walton, Pensacola), Mobile ALA or Gulfport MS ....

I've looked at cost of living compared to where I am now, but need to know "what it's really like" to live there.

I'm mid 40's, a dog lady, like to do pretty low key artsy-nature stuff (books, films, plays, gardening, hiking) and will probably be transferring my current job down there with me (I do remote IT project management) so commute/job market etc isn't so much a concern as will I be safe, will there be "others like me" (progressive, empty-nesters). I've also noticed a TON of foreclosures on the market - hope that doesn't mean the area is going to blight. How are property taxes, utilities etc?

I'm just getting started on this & will plan a spring vacation to check it out in person, so I appreciate any input in advance!!

42 replies = new reply since forum marked as read
Highlight: NoneDon't highlight anything 5 newestHighlight 5 most recent replies
Contemplating relocation. Tell me what you know ... (Original Post) Myrina Jan 2014 OP
Think about hurricanes before you make the jump. NV Whino Jan 2014 #1
I'm in tornado alley right now ... Myrina Jan 2014 #8
I may be biased but OriginalGeek Jan 2014 #2
I have a friend who has lived in Tallahassee for probably 30 years. mnhtnbb Jan 2014 #3
I dig Gulf Breeze/Navarre beach east of Pensacola NightWatcher Jan 2014 #4
Try Sperling albino65 Jan 2014 #5
the bugs in Florida are the size of helicopters magical thyme Jan 2014 #6
Indiana ain't no picnic, either ... Myrina Jan 2014 #7
which remineds me, Florida sold its water to Nestle... magical thyme Jan 2014 #39
Tallahassee is a liberal area - the rest of the Panhandle is red csziggy Jan 2014 #9
Thanks - will do! Myrina Jan 2014 #11
trof lives in that area ... LA ... Lower Alabama. Tuesday Afternoon Jan 2014 #10
If you travel throught the panhandle and see Karl Rove, flip him the bird for me Brother Buzz Jan 2014 #12
North Georgia just outside of Atlanta is the place to go. RebelOne Jan 2014 #13
What do you mean by 'North Georgia'? Myrina Jan 2014 #14
I spent some time in North Georgia NV Whino Jan 2014 #16
There are less bugs here in Georgia than there were in South Florida. RebelOne Jan 2014 #23
Worse than the water moccasins was the fact that the coat hangers rusted in the humidity. NV Whino Jan 2014 #24
Anything north of Atlanta is considered North Georgia. RebelOne Jan 2014 #22
Come to upstate SC. Relatively low cost of living, and we need progressives. nt raccoon Jan 2014 #32
Hot and humid! begin_within Jan 2014 #15
No -- too expensive, and going to be radioactive in the near future ... Myrina Jan 2014 #17
NOLA is just west of Gulfport KamaAina Jan 2014 #18
NOLA's out of the question. Myrina Jan 2014 #19
They did rebuild the levees, you know KamaAina Jan 2014 #20
I'm really phobic about water/drowning ... Myrina Jan 2014 #21
Not all of NOLA is in the bowl. It's well worth a look. nolabear Jan 2014 #28
Check out Graton Beach on 30A SkatmanRoth Jan 2014 #25
Santa Rosa beach is also on this stretch... ProdigalJunkMail Jan 2014 #36
Look at the cost of homeowners insurance if you are buying property OmahaBlueDog Jan 2014 #26
Good info, thanks! Myrina Jan 2014 #29
I grew up near Gulfport. Look into Ocean Springs instead. nolabear Jan 2014 #27
Will look into this also Myrina Jan 2014 #30
I used to call Panama City home Zorro Jan 2014 #31
+1 brazillion, thank you. Myrina Jan 2014 #35
One of my ex-military relatives retired to Fort Walton Beach Lydia Leftcoast Jan 2014 #40
Interesting thread. I've been thinking (dreaming) about moving down to that area for some time. Kaleva Jan 2014 #33
Florida Panhadle= Redneck Riviera... also lots and lots of fundies JCMach1 Jan 2014 #34
lived in Tally in 80's, was underwhelmed. I really dig Gulfport, tho. KG Jan 2014 #37
Florabama? FatBuddy Jan 2014 #38
Maybe consider St Pete Kermitt Gribble Jan 2014 #41
I have been seriously considering SAIPAN... yuiyoshida Jan 2014 #42

OriginalGeek

(12,132 posts)
2. I may be biased but
Fri Jan 10, 2014, 12:20 PM
Jan 2014

I think it's a beautiful area. I was born in Tallahassee but moved away when I was a baby. However I remember visiting my grandparents there for many years of my youth.

I have no experience with being an adult there though.

Being an artsy-ish kind of guy myself I would love to have a studio/workshop/art room that had big-ass windows with a view of the panhandle pine trees and plenty of sunlight.

I suspect there is lots of red rural area but near Tallahassee (college town and state capital - FSU and FAMU) has some blue.

I believe DUer csziggy lives near there now so if y'all are friends here that would be awesome.

mnhtnbb

(31,388 posts)
3. I have a friend who has lived in Tallahassee for probably 30 years.
Fri Jan 10, 2014, 12:27 PM
Jan 2014

They also have a beach house on St. George Island--across the bay from Apalachicola.
Another girlfriend and I visited her on St. George a couple years ago. They spend
weekends at the beach house all the time--particularly in the summer--in fact, when
she agreed to move with her hubby to Tallahassee she told him the only way she'd do
it was to have a beach house! They have an old place they've fixed up...and spent a lot
less on the 'in town' house in order to afford the beach house...but they've loved it for
almost 30 years.

I thought Apalachicola was a cute little town. Somewhat touristy, but low key.
My friend ran into friends on the street there. Might be big enough for some stuff
to do, but not like some of the larger towns. Probably a lot less expensive than St. George Island. It was about a 1 1/2 hour drive
from Tallahassee airport to St. George Island.

I can't tell you about average utilities, etc. but a local realtor could. I can tell you
that Florida is VERY hot/humid in the summer. We were there visiting in mid-June, and while it was
hot/humid, it was no worse than home here in NC.

NightWatcher

(39,343 posts)
4. I dig Gulf Breeze/Navarre beach east of Pensacola
Fri Jan 10, 2014, 12:35 PM
Jan 2014

It's pretty laid back and I don't recall it costing an arm and a leg. Be wary of hurricanes, because Ivan did a number on it 10+ years ago.

 

albino65

(484 posts)
5. Try Sperling
Fri Jan 10, 2014, 12:47 PM
Jan 2014

For anyone relocating I would suggest Sperling's bestplaces.net. It might not be the be-all and end-all of information, but it will give you information about climate, economy, crime rates, political climate, and cost of living. My wife and I consult it regularly when we get the bug to relocate. Since we live in Ohio, that bug comes often. (i.e. when the weather is yucky, or when the state and local republicans open their collective mouths.)

www.bestplaces.net

 

magical thyme

(14,881 posts)
6. the bugs in Florida are the size of helicopters
Fri Jan 10, 2014, 12:58 PM
Jan 2014

also, you never know when your house may disappear into a sinkhole.

It is a nice place to visit in the winter, though.

Myrina

(12,296 posts)
7. Indiana ain't no picnic, either ...
Fri Jan 10, 2014, 01:01 PM
Jan 2014

Ice storms, frack water, horrible air pollution, the KKK, and the Tea Party selling anyone and anything to private entities ...

csziggy

(34,136 posts)
9. Tallahassee is a liberal area - the rest of the Panhandle is red
Fri Jan 10, 2014, 01:24 PM
Jan 2014

I've lived in Tallahassee/Leon County since 1972 and love the area. With the universities, the arts community is active, several local galleries, arts communities, bookstores. Property taxes are higher in Leon than in surrounding counties, but the schools, roads and services are better because of that.

Lots of animal lovers, nature lovers, hiking opportunities. The former St. Marks Railroad is now a hiking/biking trail to the south. On the NE side, there is a greenway trail that borders Miccosukee Road. Lots of parks, museums, and places to visit.

NE and east is the more upscale side of town, in the Red Hills, higher land and better soil. South of town is sandy soil, lower land and concerns about drainage into the sinkhole system. West is the Apalachicola National Forest, more rural, more redneck. North and Northwest is low land, river and lakes.

Leon County is far enough from the coast that hurricanes lose much of their punch by the time they get here. The most problems are from flooding, so check drainage when you're looking at property.

Since you're in IT - also check where you can get broadband. Coverage is still spotty in the rural parts of the county. We're on the NE side and have fiber optic cables running in front of the farm. The main box is on the corner and we get good broadband even here in the "country". Some areas nearby can't get as much bandwidth because they are too far from the cables or boxes. I haven't kept up with how provision is in town - they may have better coverage. Check with Centurylink for their coverage.

Spring is the best time of year here - though check when the Legislature is in session since motel rooms can be tight. Everything will be turning green and blooming though the plantations burn off their underbrush and it can be smokey. Summers are hot and humid, fall is nice but the bugs can linger on. Winters are definite enough to appreciate, but the cold weather does not tend to linger. This week we had two nights of 20-22 F freezing, one day with a high of 37 F and today it's in the 60s and rainy.

If you have allergies, Tallahassee and the Big Bend is NOT a good place to be. The pollen count tends to be high and the plant variety gives lots of things to react to. I live on Zyrtec year round.

PM me when you're coming to town - maybe we can meet up.

Tuesday Afternoon

(56,912 posts)
10. trof lives in that area ... LA ... Lower Alabama.
Fri Jan 10, 2014, 01:28 PM
Jan 2014

Used to vacation at Panama as a child. Good memories. Good luck, Myrina - whatever you choose.

RebelOne

(30,947 posts)
13. North Georgia just outside of Atlanta is the place to go.
Fri Jan 10, 2014, 02:04 PM
Jan 2014

I moved up here to get away from South Florida and its bugs, heat, crime and high prices. And I had lived down there much of my life, but I will never go back.

Myrina

(12,296 posts)
14. What do you mean by 'North Georgia'?
Fri Jan 10, 2014, 02:10 PM
Jan 2014

Any particular area more hospitable to liberal northern white chicks than others?

I'm not interested in central/south Florida because I have a feeling it's going to be mostly underwater, sooner than later.
However, I admit I AM interested also in the Carolinas but have this weird phobia that without a southern accent, life would be difficult.

NV Whino

(20,886 posts)
16. I spent some time in North Georgia
Fri Jan 10, 2014, 02:51 PM
Jan 2014

Helen, GA to be exact. Not a liberal place, Too many bugs and too much humidity for my taste. However, gorgeous country and lots of beautiful birds, which are probably there because of all the bugs. Oh yeah, there are also the water moccasins and cottonmouths.

I'll take the diamond backs we have in CA. They give a little warning.

RebelOne

(30,947 posts)
23. There are less bugs here in Georgia than there were in South Florida.
Fri Jan 10, 2014, 06:26 PM
Jan 2014

South Florida had plenty of water moccasins, cottonmouths and rattlers, fortunately I never saw any. Nor have I seen any here in Georgia.

NV Whino

(20,886 posts)
24. Worse than the water moccasins was the fact that the coat hangers rusted in the humidity.
Fri Jan 10, 2014, 07:15 PM
Jan 2014

And my shoes mildewed. I don't do well in humidity. The birds, though, they're what turned me into a bird watcher.

RebelOne

(30,947 posts)
22. Anything north of Atlanta is considered North Georgia.
Fri Jan 10, 2014, 06:23 PM
Jan 2014

And I have not met many people here with a Southern accent. Most are from other states. And I do not have Southern accent as I was born in Philadelphia and grew up in Miami, but never lost my Northern accent.

 

begin_within

(21,551 posts)
15. Hot and humid!
Fri Jan 10, 2014, 02:31 PM
Jan 2014

I was born in Pensacola. I would only move to that area if you like heat and humidity. Have you considered northern California?

Myrina

(12,296 posts)
17. No -- too expensive, and going to be radioactive in the near future ...
Fri Jan 10, 2014, 03:58 PM
Jan 2014

... every place has it's negatives.

 

KamaAina

(78,249 posts)
18. NOLA is just west of Gulfport
Fri Jan 10, 2014, 04:46 PM
Jan 2014

A dog lady who's artsy sounds like a good candidate for the Mid-City neighborhood.

Many, many more progressives than in anywhere else you mentioned.

 

KamaAina

(78,249 posts)
20. They did rebuild the levees, you know
Fri Jan 10, 2014, 04:48 PM
Jan 2014

also post-K New Orleanians bug out any time even a Cat 1 heads for them.

nolabear

(41,960 posts)
28. Not all of NOLA is in the bowl. It's well worth a look.
Fri Jan 10, 2014, 09:07 PM
Jan 2014

I posted about the coast further down but if you can go to New Orleans, go. It's heaven. And no matter where you go down there you'll learn to run like holy hell when a big hurricane is headed your way. You won't drown if you can and do leave. It IS a fact of life all along the coast, though.

And as others have said, those palmetto bugs are killers. Oh, and if you love hiking out in the woods...forget it. Shit will EAT you out there.

SkatmanRoth

(843 posts)
25. Check out Graton Beach on 30A
Fri Jan 10, 2014, 07:25 PM
Jan 2014
http://30a.com/grayton-beach/

There is a length of highway 30A West of where I live that has lots of Art Galleries and they host concerts during the summer.

Grayton Beach
Seaside
Rosemary Beach

It is a bit of a drive to any shopping. Nearest malls are in Mary Ester, Pensacola, and Panama City.

OmahaBlueDog

(10,000 posts)
26. Look at the cost of homeowners insurance if you are buying property
Fri Jan 10, 2014, 08:46 PM
Jan 2014

Windstorm insurance in Florida is a fortune, and has a high deductible.

If you are in a rental situation, talk to an agent about getting coverage for possessions that could be damaged in a storm, as well as temporary displacement.

That part of Florida has a lot to offer, but be mindful that the folks in that part of the state are much like folks in Georia or Alabama. This is not the Florida Keys in a political sense.

Nevertheless, if I return to Florida, this is an area I'd strongly consider, along with the "Space Coast" (Melbourne Beach, Merit Island, etc. )

nolabear

(41,960 posts)
27. I grew up near Gulfport. Look into Ocean Springs instead.
Fri Jan 10, 2014, 09:03 PM
Jan 2014

Gulfport's not bad, but Ocean Springs, just to the east, has a considerably nicer arts scene. It's also not quite as plastered to the coast so hurricanes (and there WILL be hurricanes) aren't as likely to blow or flood you out. I have a sister there and I know it well. Check out The Walter Anderson Museum of Art in Ocean Springs (he has long been one of my favorite artists and lived there all his life) and the George Ohr Museum in Biloxi.

There are more progressives than DU would have you expect. But it is the South and you need to know there are plenty of blue collar conservatives. Fishing, shipbuilding, military, tourism and all kinds of water culture are the major influences. New Orleans isn't far away and it's heaven as far as I'm concerned. If you're in GUlfport or Biloxi you're going to see a whole lot of casinos, since they've become big moneymakers there. The beaches are not fabulous, but they can be nice. Florida is definitely better for that, though.

I don't think it's going to blight. The area actually has a lot going for it, and you're right that the cost of living is very, very low, the people are laid back, there's always a reason for a party and the food is unbelievable. I've thought about doing it myself when and if.

Zorro

(15,740 posts)
31. I used to call Panama City home
Fri Jan 10, 2014, 11:54 PM
Jan 2014

It gets hot as a firecracker during the summer, with the most ferocious thunderstorms you will ever encounter cooling things down in the afternoon -- they can be quite awe-inspiring and spectacular. It can also get damn cold in the winter -- 35 degrees in Florida feels a lot colder than 35 degrees in Indianapolis. Lots of Canadian snowbirds winter there.

Utility costs are relatively high from running the A/C half a year. It stays very humid during the summer months, and the glasses/sunglasses you're wearing will immediately fog over when you leave the house for your car to go somewhere.

Panhandle beaches truly are the most beautiful in the world; think fine white sand, with the waves breaking along the beach a shimmering emerald color. Summer water temps get over 80 degrees, so there's no shock getting into the water; it's almost bathwater warm.

The Panhandle backcountry is also quite scenic. Lots of piney woods and pleasant 2 lane highways (pleasant except when one is behind a logging truck). Also lots of swampy ground and fresh water springs (Wakulla is a wonder). The Apalachicola River/Dead Lakes area is the original home of tupelo honey. Plenty of live oaks with Spanish moss everywhere.

One gets close to nature in the Panhandle, because nature comes in to visit you in your living room. Florida cockroaches (they call them Palmetto bugs there) get a couple of inches long, and they fly. Rattlesnakes, cottonmouths, and copperheads are common, so one would need to keep an eye out when walking the dog.

There are nascent artsy areas in a few of the larger towns around the Panhandle. The territory between Pensacola and Panama City is a favorite of military retirees, having been attracted to the area after being stationed at one of the AF or Navy installations along the coast. The Panhandle is also home to lots of good ol' boys that like their huntin' and fishin', along with significant numbers of Republican rednecks; Rmoney carried the area quite handily in 2012.

Very decent colleges in the area (University of West Florida is built within a nature preserve), with Auburn and Florida State being the ones most college sports-minded locals follow. And follow passionately.

Real estate is all dependent on where you want to reside. Beach property is very expensive, but most towns have pretty reasonably priced neighborhoods. Home insurance isn't cheap, but it can be less expensive if one passes a wind mitigation inspection. Live close to the coast and you'll pay a higher premium because of the hurricane threat.

There are no state income taxes, but property taxes are relatively higher as a percentage of assessed value than other states (including, surprisingly, California). Many newer homes (built ~2004-2005) have a Chinese drywall problem, so that's something you'd need to check out if you're thinking about buying.

I really like Florida, although it's distressing that Republicans control state government. But it still beats Indiana, IMHO -- I also lived there for a few years, too.

Myrina

(12,296 posts)
35. +1 brazillion, thank you.
Sat Jan 11, 2014, 02:39 PM
Jan 2014

I appreciate the well thought out assessment & will take all your points into consideration.

Lydia Leftcoast

(48,217 posts)
40. One of my ex-military relatives retired to Fort Walton Beach
Sat Jan 11, 2014, 06:35 PM
Jan 2014

Right-wing doesn't begin to describe him.

I'd stay away from any place he found congenial.

Kaleva

(36,298 posts)
33. Interesting thread. I've been thinking (dreaming) about moving down to that area for some time.
Sat Jan 11, 2014, 10:39 AM
Jan 2014

But upstate South Carolina, as mentioned in this thread, looks like a real possibility too.

JCMach1

(27,558 posts)
34. Florida Panhadle= Redneck Riviera... also lots and lots of fundies
Sat Jan 11, 2014, 11:31 AM
Jan 2014


If you are looking for North Florida, check the Tallahassee and Gainesville areas... they are solidly blue islands in the red North of the state.
 

FatBuddy

(376 posts)
38. Florabama?
Sat Jan 11, 2014, 03:19 PM
Jan 2014

Nothing unusual except for your typical southern lifeways: laziness ethic; plantation mentality; plenty of christian fundamentalism.

You'll find plenty of decent, kind people though, pockets of progressive types (usually in college towns), and pretty decent seafood.

Kermitt Gribble

(1,855 posts)
41. Maybe consider St Pete
Sat Jan 11, 2014, 06:45 PM
Jan 2014

I haven't been to the panhandle but it seems very red other than Gainesville and Tallahassee.

I moved to St Pete from PA 6.5 years ago and like it a lot. Lots of artsy stuff (galleries, festivals, etc) and it's very pet friendly. IT jobs are somewhat plentiful here, as well. Not sure about hiking, other than paved trails, but Tampa has a few mountain biking trails - plus the Nature Coast is only an hour away.

yuiyoshida

(41,831 posts)
42. I have been seriously considering SAIPAN...
Sat Jan 11, 2014, 08:20 PM
Jan 2014

But I love San Francisco too much. Japantown here is wonderful. Just being there makes me feel like I am truly home. Besides...I heard popcorn is ungodly expensive in Saipan!

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