Photography
Related: About this forumMacro with a 135mm lens, and extension tubes.
With the Micro 4/3 2X crop, it acts as a 270mm. Lens is a Suntar 135mm 2.8 I found at eBay. I was enforcing a $20 limit at that time, so this lens was an incredible deal. It should make a good portrait lens on an APS-C sensor. Focus is smooth and precise, and nice clicks on the aperture ring. This same lens goes under various names.
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Major Nikon
(36,827 posts)One issue with most long lenses is they inevitably don't focus very close. Adding extension to any lens decreases the minimum focusing distance. Adding extension to a long lens allows you more working distance and greater subject isolation than you'd get with a shorter lens.
alfredo
(60,071 posts)even without extension tubes. It's a low contrast lens, but sometimes that works with vegetation.
ohheckyeah
(9,314 posts)but the bee picture is superb.
I've never used extension tubes. I may have to check into that.
alfredo
(60,071 posts)regular photos, I leave as is, but if I want to shoot macro I can just swap ends. The adaptor works as a hood to protect the back element.
I get no vignetting from the adaptors, but I use a micro 4/3 so YMMV.
ohheckyeah
(9,314 posts)Do you know if that is true?
alfredo
(60,071 posts)The 50mm is usually a good all around lens anyway.
All these lenses are fully manual.
Here's what I use as Macro lenses:
Tokina EL 28mm 2.8 (my favorite)
Yashinon DX 50mm 1.7
Industar 50-2 50mm 3.5
And now the Suntar 135mm 2.8
ohheckyeah
(9,314 posts)It looks like this is what I would need:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/375238-REG/Kenko_AEXTUBEDGN_Auto_Extension_Tube_Set.html
This video shows the difference in using the extension tubes with the 70-200 and 50 prime, both of which I have.
Well, I need to start a new camera equipment fund. LOL
Major Nikon
(36,827 posts)At least for most SLRs, tubes usually come in sets of 3 varying lengths, although you can buy them individually if you want a specific length.
In all cases they reduce the minimum focusing distance of your lens, at the expense of some of the available light. So they work best with lenses that have a large maximum aperture such as f/4 or better. Trying to use them with slower lenses is a bit more difficult because it makes focusing more challenging since the available light is reduced on a lens that doesn't have much to begin with.
ohheckyeah
(9,314 posts)I have the 55 - 200 which is f/4 as is the 50mm prime lens so it should would with both.
The 18-55mm is F/3.5
Major Nikon
(36,827 posts)I highly recommend the Kenko tubes. You can find other sets that are cheaper and some of them may be good, but often the contacts will start to wear out and give you all sorts of problems. I've had my Kenko tubes for many years and they still work great.
A 50 prime is a good lens to experiment with tubes. It's not like having a true macro lens which has floating elements, but you will be able to focus very close.
ohheckyeah
(9,314 posts)but try to buy the best I can so I would rather get something you have tried and found to be good than save a few bucks on taking a crap shoot. I can have that in my fund in a reasonable period of time.
Each month my husband and I take a designated amount of money that we can spend as we please. It's not a great amount, but it can add up quickly if I'm frugal with other things. And let's face it, what's more important than camera equipment for us photo junkies? I don't buy a lot of clothes or jewelry or that kind of thing so I don't spent a lot. I hoard it for either camera or other electronic equipment...I'm rather nerdy that way.
alfredo
(60,071 posts)primary bought an Olympus EPM2 body and some Sugru to enhance the grip.
The money I get from Nov and my coins will buy an Olympus 17mm 1.8 lens. They make good glass.
Major Nikon
(36,827 posts)For cheaper than a Kenko set, you can get this lens:
http://www.adorama.com/US%20%20%20%20641090.html
If you have a D3XXX or D5XXX series camera, this lens will not meter and it's a manual focus lens so it will not autofocus. Neither of these limitations are all that bad. Autofocus with macro is worthless anyway and metering can be accomplished by looking at your histogram and making necessary adjustments with the aperture ring and shutter setting in M mode.
alfredo
(60,071 posts)alfredo
(60,071 posts)For precise work, a good tripod and some focus rails will help you nail focus. If the sickness goes malignant, you will probably have to buy a flash ring and remote shutter.
I'm poor (retired), so available light has to be how I roll.
burrowowl
(17,640 posts)Extension tubes are a great help.
alfredo
(60,071 posts)Those were wonderful days.
cntrygrl
(356 posts)what you explained in your written post. I'm lucky to get anything really good from my DSLR camera's. I do know, however, what is beautiful and thoroughly enjoy these pictures. Thank you.
alfredo
(60,071 posts)exposing you to some excellent photographers. I have learned so much from them. They can teach you by example, and by giving advice, if asked.
You are welcomed to our group. Join in and have fun.
cntrygrl
(356 posts)taking notes - literally. I'm hoping to learn a little more before we head up north to visit with family and friends. Since racking up more and more years under my belt I've become quite shaky which isn't good. I've searched and searched on DIY sites that have 'how to's' on making various homemade stabilizers. I was wondering if you use one. Mine is still being thought out and hopefully I'll have it done before hitting the roads for our trip.
I do intend on reading much more on the forum. Thank you,
alfredo
(60,071 posts)contact point. You have that on your DSLR. Higher shutter speeds help.
cntrygrl
(356 posts)a whirl when I' up north. Thank you.
alfredo
(60,071 posts)father founding
(619 posts)if you looked into a teapublicans head with this lens combination, You still couldn't see anything.