Photography
Related: About this forumFirst attempt with IR
I used a 720 IR filter. Instead of bracketing, I I set my camera to HDR. That gave me 4 images compiled into one. I then converted to Black and White, then played with levels.
I will play with color, but my knowledge of IR editing is woefully inadequate
Marie Marie
(9,999 posts)alfredo
(60,082 posts)If thats your first attempt, I cant wait for when youre even better!
alfredo
(60,082 posts)Good to see you, alfredo!
alfredo
(60,082 posts)flamin lib
(14,559 posts)The sky looks like IR but the trees and grass don't look like the stuff I shoot. Is your camera converted or are you using a filter on a standard camera?
My EPL1 is converted to full spectrum--everything from IR to Ultra violet with all the visible spectrum spectrum in-between.
Interesting shot regardless.
alfredo
(60,082 posts)I figured that whatever look I get, I run with it. I will post others, but one I am holding back for the Portal contest.
flamin lib
(14,559 posts)All digital cameras have filters to eliminate all but the visible spectrum. It cleans up any bleed over of non-visible wavelegnths. Some are more effecient than others. To find out how effective your camera is point it at your TV remote control. Oly is pretty good. They also have anti- alias filters that lessen sharpness but clean up morie noise in the older cameras. I think the EM5 v1.0 is the last with anti-alias.
I don't know what post processing software you're using but most have an IR setting in film effects. Might give that a try to see the difference.
I'm thinking of converting my EM5 v1.0 to full spectrum so I might have a low milage EPL1 for sale cheap soon.
Stoptics.com offers ir filters for over the sensor applications. One filter any lens!
Look for a pm from me.
alfredo
(60,082 posts)I have GIMP, and so others I need to explore.
Adsos Letter
(19,459 posts)Makes me think of Elysium.
Have fun, alfredo. Im looking forward to more of this.
alfredo
(60,082 posts)Major Nikon
(36,827 posts)True IR is monochromatic.
The problem with capturing IR images on most digital cameras is they have an IR block filter built into the sensor. So when you place an IR pass filter onto the lens the two filters work against each other and you wind up with very little light passing which requires extremely long exposure times. Those filters don't really completely block all light, but they just attenuate certain frequencies until they are no longer relevant under normal exposure times. Through long exposure you can still pass light, but you'll be passing light that's in both IR and normal visual range which defeats most of the exercise of trying to get an IR image. You get some IR, but you also get everything in the visual range at more or less the same level.
You may have seen some "IR" images that have color. I have posted a few myself. They aren't true IR images and the "color" in them is actually more of a product of post production editing tools. What they actually are is IR with some red and orange. The red and orange are shifted by editing those color channels into other color channels to create a more visually appealing image.
In order to create an IR image with most digital cameras you need a conversion that removes or replaces the sensors IR block filter. Some digital cameras would pass some IR. For instance the Nikon D70 was highly coveted at one time as an IR camera because it would pass some IR, but it required an IR pass filter on the lens and long exposure times, and it created images that would often be converted into IR false color images. Later on some people started removing or replacing their camera's IR filter with one that is basically the same as the 720nm or 850nm depending on how far into the IR spectrum you wanted to go. Others used 665nm and 590nm filters to create the false color IR images made popular by the D70. You could also use an IR pass filter on the lens and create more of a true IR image if you wanted with one of those filters.
If you have a film camera you can do it the way we did it back before the days of digital cameras. You just buy IR film and use your 720nm filter or any other high spectrum pass filter.
One of the challenges you face with IR whether digital or film is the focus point changes. Back when lenses used to have distance scales on them, some of them included a little red dot which indicated the offset for IR. If you don't have such a lens you either have to figure out the offset through trial and error or use a wide DOF (typically with a wide angle lens), or you can use live mode if your camera supports it.
False color IR:
Monochromatic IR:
Adsos Letter
(19,459 posts)I think that I have seen it posted before (quite awhile ago).
Major Nikon
(36,827 posts)It's from a swamp in Louisiana. I took it using my IR converted Nikon D5000.
alfredo
(60,082 posts)alfredo
(60,082 posts)I do have a film camera. Maybe it would be worth a try.
Major Nikon
(36,827 posts)Which is to say the normal color spectrum is still being passed. If you have photoshop or some other editing program that allows you to adjust the color channels during B&W conversion, you might try playing around with that. I think you will discover that trying to get IR images from a normal digital camera is difficult, if not impossible due to the IR blocking filter that's internal to the camera. The reason digital cameras have them is because without it IR tends to shift the colors in a way that's difficult to remove in the camera's internal processor.
As I mentioned, the easiest way to get started is with a film camera, IR film, and a 720nm filter assuming you still have a film camera. Otherwise you might try picking up a used D70.
alfredo
(60,082 posts)I have a film camera made by Ricoh. It came with that lovely Sears 50mm 2.0 lens.
Here's one using the internal red filter in my Oly EM10